Monday, September 20, 2010

Surfing Igor at Ocean Isle Inlet, CB North End and Sunset Beach

Being mobile is the ticket for NC dynamic conditions. I sampled Igor's sinuous waves from the north end of Carolina Beach to the NC state line at Sunset Beach. My new thermo-form splint allowed me to paddle surf with reasonable comfort in some really fun conditions.

Ocean Isle North End Sunday

Where's Waldo?

Waldo found.
Typical end to the rides. Not prudent to be greedy! Get off here or eat the bar.
Windsurfer's delight. Off side off on 3D playground.

Between Holden and Ocean Isle
First thing at high tide the waves were tubing and breaking hard near shore. Unfortunately it was a harsh closeout so certainly not geared for longboard turns. The OIB inlet was much like the CB north end. We used the 4th street beach access and I was able to get out first try on the 10'5 no problem. It has been a long time since having off shore wind while paddling- it was pouring out of the inlet so strong I had to paddle my ass off and jump on the nose to get the drop but the return trip after each wave was such a relief! I don't know if it was a combination of the tide dropping or the swell size growing but it got to the point I couldn't get out through the shore pound. Every ripple was breaking hard and the 10'5 beast was too much. Jennifer and I gave up and hit the water tower for some body surfing. Donald Obst and crew happend to be there too. We found the current much stronger than the inlet but the set lulls were much longer. Again though the surf was beautiful but closing out... there were lots of short boarders getting really short rides. 9/10 were like drop, zip zip, oof, eat shit. Much respect for them.
CB North End Saturday
There were a number of firsts for this sesh. Coolest was meeting Dwight, Jacky, Brian M., Surf Machine, Z, Brad and others. Great crew with lots of energy, bow hunting skills, nunchuck skills and surfing skills. I'm so used to shore break it took a while to get used to catching this big long period swell. You think it will break on you but no- it just holds a clean face forever! It was the most fun you can have standing up. I collected Mark and Jennifer then drove out on the beach for the first time in my first 4x4 too. Meet the pimp wagon.
Inshore warm up

soooo clean...

Mark braces for launch
Jennifer (A #1 photographer) sailing the Drive on a light NE at the Basin at Fort Fisher

Sunset Beach, the West End Thursday, Friday
I wish I would have taken pictures Thursday morning at low tide. I was very surprised to find Igor's initial swell making it to Sunset with such quality. Leah was doing really well on the 10'5 in thigh to waist high glassy surf. I was body surfing with Rob, John and Brian so I got some sweet views of Leah riding those waves. I'm amazed how quickly she's gotten the hang of the punch throughs paddling out and turning to ride the shoulder. Leah ended her sesh around lunch time so I surfed the rising tide the rest of the afternoon until the south wind blew out the surf around 5pm.
Nearer to high tide. Not as good but still fairly clean.
Brian Luisana on his first SUP wave
Sunset next to Bird Island

Monday, September 13, 2010

The new custom is here!

Crafted from the latest in thermo-form plastic technology courtesy of Greensboro Orthopedics and Sports Medicine!




Solo mountain biking on the 8th. Rounding a sandy bend. Loose rock, smack-down, slide, ooomph. Metacarpal of index busted at the knuckle.


It could be way worse. With this puppy I should be able to surf, paddle and windsurf. I'll just have to adjust- lucky my form is already ugly so it won't be that noticeable.

I'm thinking back to Earl and ahead to Igor- can I adjust in time if the conditions come the end of the week at OIB?

Early morning Earl swell.

Earl puffs at Lake Waccamaw Sail Club


Sept 6 at the Cove